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In St. Martinville, Pie Day is a day of fasting and penance, not March 14 the day that celebrates the mathematical constant π (with the first three significant figures of 3, 1, and 4).
The St. Martinville version, on the other hand, is held on Good Friday. The day is rooted in French tradition — Jour de Tarte — and traces back to the mid-12th century. Catholic cannon holds that practicing Catholics are allowed one meat-free meal on this day, and with Good Friday being such a holy day, many observants even abstained from cooking.
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Traditionally, the pies were baked the day before, and on Good Friday, residents travelled from house to house visiting their relatives and eating pie at midday. The traditional spread included sweet dough pies with custard or fruit filling and tomato pie with a crust for something savory.
I had the pleasure of attending my first Pie Day in St. Martinville over a decade ago, which was hosted by the family of a friend of mine. Every kind of pie imaginable — crawfish, mushroom, lemon, blueberry — was spread on tables nestled beneath moss-draped oaks along the bayou. For the experience, I broke my own rule of never serving something at a party that I had never baked and tasted before.
I made the exception because I wanted to bake a savory pie, as I assumed (incorrectly) that the majority of pies would be sweet — and I wanted to bring a special offering honoring the day and the tradition to which I was being welcomed. After a bit of research, I decided to bake an oyster pie inspired by Corrine Cook’s recipe as published in The Advocate on December 29, 2009.
Over time, I’ve tinkered with the original recipe — even lost it until recently — and have baked a version that includes meat. So, whether you are celebrating a mathematical constant, breaking fast on Good Friday, or just want a delicious dish to serve to friends and family, I hope you find time to enjoy a good pie.
Oyster Pie
Serves 6-8
Recipe by Corrine Cook
2 (9-inch) unbaked pie crusts
1 pts. oysters, drain and reserve oyster liquid. Halve or quarter the oysters if large.
3 strips of bacon, chopped or ¼ cup butter (see note below to make pie meat-free)
1 cup chopped onion
½ cup chopped celery
½ cup chopped green onions
2-3 cloves garlic, chopped
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon fresh-cracked black pepper
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ cup flour
½ cup heavy cream
½ lemon, juiced
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
*If you desire a meat-free option, omit the bacon and step 3. Sauté the vegetables in ¼ cup olive oil or butter.
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
2. Place one pie crust into a pie plate and set aside.
3. Cook bacon over medium high heat until browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve ¼ cup bacon grease in the pan. (Note: If making the pie meat-free, begin by melting the butter in a skillet).
4. Sauté the onions and celery and cook until soft and the onions translucent.
5. Add the green onions, garlic salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cook, stirring for one minute.
6. Add the flour and stir continuously until the mixture is a golden-brown roux.
7. Gradually stir in ¾ cup reserved oyster liqueur, heavy whipping cream, and lemon juice. Cook until thickened, approximately 4-5 minutes.
8. Add the oysters and cook for one to two minutes. Remove from heat.
9. Fold in parsley and bacon (if using). Let cool slightly and adjust the seasoning to taste.
10. Pour the oyster filling into the prepared pie crust and top with the remaining crust. Crimp the pie crust edges to seal and cut several decorative slits in the top of the pie crust for venting while baking.
11. Bake until golden brown and the filling is bubbly, approximately 30-35 minutes.
12. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes before serving.