These recipes, using a whole chicken or many of its parts, offer quick and nutritious ways to feed either the family with little time or, for us, cook staff lunch for the chefs and waiters at Moro. The reason we cook today is the same as it has always been, to give people pleasure and put a huge smile on their faces.
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We really love cooking and eating chicken. Unfortunately, we are also slightly repulsed by industrially farmed chicken. We understand that real prices for real chicken can be eye-wateringly expensive, yet collectively we are starting to understand that eating less meat, but of a higher quality and welfare, is a better option.
Roast chicken wings with lemon wedges, whole garlic cloves, oregano and cumin (pictured above)
We like strong flavours, so part of the point of cooking the wings with lemons is for the acidity to cut through the richness, but also to nibble on the caramelised lemons, which is invigorating, delicious and good for you.
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Serves 4
organic or free-range chicken wings 8, halved at the joint
lemon 1 large (preferably unwaxed and/or organic), cut into 8 wedges
garlic 2 heads, broken into individual cloves and lightly squashed with the heel of your hand
dried oregano 1 tsp
cumin seeds 1 heaped tsp, lightly crushed in a mortar and pestle
olive oil 2 tsp
salt and pepper
Heat your oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7.
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In a large bowl, toss all your ingredients together (crushing the lemon wedges as you go, to release some of their juice) and sufficient salt and pepper. Let them stand for 10 minutes. Find an ovenproof dish, roasting tray or frying pan that is the correct size to fit all the wings in snugly, (but not heaped on top of one another).
Place in the oven for 35 minutes. We like to toss them vigorously after 20 minutes to disperse all the different flavours, and encourage more even colouring. When nicely roasted with a little bit of blackening, remove from the oven. Allow to rest for 5-10 minutes before serving. We like to eat this with wild rice and braised spinach. If you like things a little spicy, you can always sprinkle some crushed chilli flakes or finely chopped fresh red chilli on top.
Chicken thighs braised with leeks, peas, mint and sour cream
New potatoes sliced in half can be added to this dish when you add the liquid, if you desire a one-pot wonder. Otherwise, we like to eat this with mashed potato.
Serves 4
organic or free-range chicken thighs 4-6, whole, not boned
salt and pepper
olive oil 1 tbsp
leeks 4, tougher green leaves removed and rinsed to remove grit
butter 50g
dried mint 1 tsp
water or chicken stock 500ml
frozen peas 1 x 375g bag
fresh parsley and/or mint 1 tbsp, chopped
garlic 2 medium cloves, peeled and crushed with salt
organic sour cream 4 tbsp
Season the thighs with salt and pepper. Locate a frying or saucepan large enough to fit the thighs (preferably with a lid). Place over a medium heat, and add the oil and chicken to brown. The more love that is taken with browning the meat all over, the more delicious the finished result will be.
While browning, take the time to slice your leeks into 1cm discs. Place the browned thighs to one side on a plate and immediately add the butter and leeks to the pan. Season with salt, pepper and the dried mint.
As the leeks create steam, scrape the dark caramelised juices off the pan base. Soften the leeks over a high heat for 5 minutes, stirring often, then turn down the heat and cook for another 10 minutes. Add the water or stock and half the peas (we like to add half the peas now and half the peas 5 minutes before the end of cooking to give contrasting flavour, texture and colour). Bring the dish to a simmer, cover with greaseproof paper or foil, followed by a lid (if available). Simmer for half an hour before adding the rest of the peas and the fresh herbs. (At this point, check that the pan is not getting too dry or catching, as now is the time to add a splash more water if necessary.)
Simmer for 5 more minutes, then rest for 5 minutes. Have a final taste to make sure you’re happy with the seasoning, then stir the crushed garlic into the sour cream and serve on the side.
Chicken drumsticks roasted with cherry tomatoes, spring onions, sage and red chilli
We, more than ever, are fascinated with the idea that herbs and spices were part of ancient medicine. Spices often derive from ayurvedic and eastern traditions, and Latin herbs such as rosemary, sage, thyme and oregano are documented in the hospitals of the medieval monasteries and ancient Greece. As this dish already has vegetables, you only really need to serve a salad on the side.
Serves 4
cherry tomatoes 12
garlic 3 cloves, peeled and crushed with ½ tsp salt
spring onions 1 bunch (including green tops), washed and sliced
new potatoes 600g (about 8-12, depending on size) sliced in ½ lengthways
sage 1 small bunch, washed and shredded
olive oil 2 tbsp
salt and pepper
organic chicken drumsticks 8, lightly tossed in salt
red chillies 2 medium-large, halved and deseeded
Preheat your oven to 160C fan/gas mark 4.
Cut your tomatoes in half and face them upwards. Dab a bit of your garlic paste on each tomato.
Separately, toss the rest of the vegetables, the sage and olive oil together with some salt and pepper. Place this mixture in an ovenproof dish or frying pan, the correct size to fit the drumsticks. Dot the tomatoes face up around the dish with the chillies. Now place the seasoned drumsticks on top. Roast in the oven for 35-40 minutes. Rest for a good 5 minutes before serving.
Stir-fried mini chicken fillets, with fresh ginger, green chilli, coriander and tomatoes
This is inspired by travelling through beautiful Pakistan as a young man and meeting street vendors who would cook chicken or mutton karai at the side of the road. It’s a culinary experience I will never forget. This would normally be served with a chapati or naan, but we like to accompany it with steamed rice with some chickpeas or lentils stirred through (tinned pulses work well).
Serves 4
organic or free-range mini chicken fillets 12-16
garlic 3 cloves, sliced thinly
cumin seeds 1 tsp
ginger 3cm, sliced into matchsticks
ghee or sunflower oil 3 tbsp
onions 2 medium, peeled and chopped
green chillies 1-3 medium, chopped
cherry tomatoes 14, quartered
hot paprika or ground chilli to finish (optional)
fresh coriander 2 small or 1 big bunch, washed and roughly chopped (stalks and all)
Mix the chicken fillets, garlic, cumin, ginger and a good pinch of salt together. Heat up your wok over a high heat. Add the ghee or oil and the onions. Stir-fry for 20 seconds. Add your fillets and continue to cook for another 40 seconds over a high heat. Then add the green chilli and the tomatoes, and season with salt and pepper to taste. If you like spice, add the extra ground chilli or hot paprika at this point.
Cook for 1-2 minutes more until the fillets are cooked through. Serve with lots of fresh coriander on top and sprinkle with more hot paprika or chilli if you want a little more kick.
Whole roast chicken with garlic cloves and wild mushroom gravy
Our children were subjected to many exotic flavours as they grew up, but it is very touching that given the choice, their favourite food is roast chicken with all the trimmings. We usually oblige, but sometimes we embellish. This is one such embellishment. Dried wild porcini mushrooms are excellent for this dish. Morels are also delicious, but a dry wild mushroom mixture will do very well.
Serves 4-6
onion 1 medium, peeled and cut into 8 wedges
garlic 14 cloves, unpeeled
thyme 1 large sprig, or 1 level tsp dried thyme
salt and pepper
chicken 1 medium-large
olive oil 1 tbsp
sherry, or white or red wine 250ml
corn flour 1 tsp, slaked with 1 tbsp water
dried porcini 15g, roughly broken up into 1cm pieces and covered with boiling water
double cream 2-3 tbsp (optional)
Preheat the oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7. Toss the onion, garlic and thyme with some salt and pepper and place in the chicken’s cavity.
Transfer the chicken to a large ovenproof frying pan (ideally) or roasting tray. Drizzle on the olive oil, season with salt and place in the oven. Cook for half an hour, then take out the chicken, baste with any oils in the pan, remove the onion, thyme and garlic and place in the bottom of the pan and cook for a further 20 minutes.
Check if the chicken is done in the traditional way by placing a skewer in the thickest part of the meat and seeing if the juices run clear (not bloody). Lift the chicken out of the pan and place on a plate and leave to relax. Add the wine, corn flour and the mushrooms to the pan, and reduce for 5 minutes. Pour the juices that have been released from the chicken into the pan, add your cream, if using, and taste for seasoning. If you are not happy with the concentration of the flavours, continue reducing if you wish.
When you’re ready to eat, carve the chicken as you normally would and spoon the whole garlic cloves and mushroom sauce on top.
Sam and Sam Clark are chef-owners of Moro, 34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1;