Avoid a trip to the grocery store with cabinet staples tuna, canned tomatoes, and bread crumbs

February 27, 2024

No need to brave winter weather for another chilly, slushy run to the grocery store. Chances are, your kitchen cabinets already contain the makings of a great meal. Taking inspiration from cooks around the world, our book Cook What You Have is packed with more than 200 fast, flexible recipes that transform common pantry, refrigerator, and freezer staples into something special. Got tuna? You’re minutes away from delicious, crispy fish cakes. Or, crack open a can of tomatoes for a hearty, nourishing bowl of tomato-rice soup. And eggs go elegant with toasted Parmesan bread crumbs and wilted greens.

Pan-Fried Tuna Cakes With Yogurt-Caper Sauce

Makes 4 servings

This recipe was inspired by Israeli seasoned fish cakes known as ktzitzot dagim. Traditional versions usually are prepared with fresh fish and might be fried, baked, or cooked directly in a sauce. We opt for canned tuna, making this an easy

recipe for weeknight dinners. Choose good-quality, water-packed tuna, as its flavor is purer and lighter than the oil-packed variety. Be sure to drain the tuna, then give it a light squeeze before adding it to the mixture; this prevents the patties from becoming soggy.

We use yogurt two ways: to add tanginess to the fish cakes themselves and as a creamy dipping sauce that’s served alongside.

¾ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, divided

2 tablespoons drained capers, chopped

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

4 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil, divided

2 medium shallots or ½ medium yellow onion, finely chopped

Two 5-ounce cans water-packed tuna, drained, flaked, and lightly squeezed to remove excess water

1 large egg, beaten

½ cup panko bread crumbs

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges to serve

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Hot sauce or finely chopped fresh cilantro or both, optional, for garnish

In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup of the yogurt, the capers, and ¼ teaspoon pepper; set aside. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet set over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon oil until it shimmers. Add the shallots and ½ teaspoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl; reserve the skillet.

To the bowl with the shallots, add the tuna, egg, panko, lemon zest, cumin, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and the remaining ¼ cup yogurt. Stir until well combined. Form into 8 balls and place on a baking sheet. Using your hands, press each ball into a 2½-inch patty.

In the same skillet over medium-high heat, warm the remaining 3 tablespoons oil until shimmering. Add the patties, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until golden brown on the bottoms, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a wide spatula, flip the patties and cook until golden brown on the second sides, about another 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and sprinkle lightly with salt.

Transfer the tuna cakes to a serving platter, then top with a drizzle of hot sauce and a sprinkle of cilantro, if using, and serve with the yogurt sauce and lemon wedges.

Tomato-Rice Soup With Caramelized OnionConnie Miller/of CB Creatives

Tomato-Rice Soup With Caramelized Onion

Makes 4 servings

To deepen the flavor of this pantry staple soup, we caramelize an onion and simmer some of it into the soup; the rest is reserved for garnish. Though our preference is long-grain white rice (regular, jasmine, or basmati), even starchy Arborio rice will work. Long-grain brown rice is good, too, but be sure to increase the simmering time to 35 to 40 minutes. No matter what type of rice you use, rinse and drain it before adding it to the pot.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more to serve

1 large yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon white sugar

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ cup long-grain white rice, rinsed and drained (see headnote)

14½-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand

1 quart low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth

½ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley or basil leaves, chopped

Basil pesto or finely grated Parmesan cheese or both, optional, for garnish

In a large saucepan set over medium heat, warm the oil until it shimmers. Add the onion, sugar, and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is well browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer half to a small bowl; set aside.

Add the thyme to the remaining onion in the pan and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the rice, tomatoes with juices, and broth. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, 18 to 20 minutes.

Off heat, stir in the parsley, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Top with the reserved onion, the pesto, and/or cheese, if using, and a drizzle of additional oil.

Eggs Fried in Parmesan Bread Crumbs With Wilted SpinachConnie Miller/of CB Creatives

Eggs Fried in Parmesan Bread Crumbs With Wilted Spinach

Serves 2

Eggs fried in bread crumbs were the creation of the late Judy Rodgers, the longtime chef of Zuni Café, a landmark San Francisco restaurant. The iconic dish consists of crisp, toasted bread crumbs as a textural underlay for eggs that are cooked on top, the whites seeping slightly into the crumbs before they set and the yolks on the surface remaining sunny and runny.

For our version, we use panko instead of stale bread torn into pieces, as Rodgers did, and before toasting, we mix in a little Parmesan (or manchego) cheese to add umami, plus a touch of vinegar to sharpen the flavors. Baby spinach scattered over the eggs as they fry in the covered pan offers insulation so they cook gently. If you prefer your yolks medium- or hard-set, add 1 to 3 minutes to the cooking time.

Only four eggs fit comfortably in a 12-inch skillet; if you need more for serving, it’s best to make another batch or use a second 12-inch nonstick skillet.

¾ cup panko bread crumbs

1 ounce finely grated (½ cup) Parmesan cheese, plus more to serve

¾ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon smoked sweet paprika

2 teaspoons sherry vinegar

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve

4 large eggs

2½ ounces (about 3½ cups) baby spinach

Off the heat, in a 12-inch nonstick skillet, combine the panko, Parmesan, thyme, paprika, vinegar, ½ teaspoon pepper, and 3 tablespoons oil. Stir until well combined.

Set the skillet over medium-high heat and toast the mixture, stirring often, until light golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Working quickly, use the back of a spoon to create 4 evenly spaced clearings in the mixture. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons oil into the clearings, dividing it evenly, then crack an egg into each; it should sizzle on contact.

Sprinkle the eggs with salt, then cover them with the spinach. Reduce the heat to medium-low, then cover the skillet and cook, occasionally rotating the pan to help ensure even browning, until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Using a thin, wide spatula, transfer the eggs to individual plates. To serve, drizzle with additional oil and sprinkle with additional cheese.


Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to 177milkstreet.com/globe. Send comments to .

Close
Your custom text © Copyright 2024. All rights reserved.
Close